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Day 3: Rangat to Mayabunder — Where the Forest Meets the Ocean

  • Writer: Teamparikrama
    Teamparikrama
  • Mar 11
  • 4 min read

Some days on the bicycle are about the distance you cover.

Some are about the elevation you climb.


And then there are days like today — when the road simply invites you to slow down and experience the island.


Day 3 began from Rangat, riding towards Mayabunder. The morning started warm, the kind of tropical heat that quietly tells you — today the island will show you its moods.


Just about 12 kilometers into the ride, I stopped at Moricedera Beach, where a gentle river stream slowly finds its way into the sea. It’s a quiet place. No noise, no crowds — just the sound of water flowing through the forest before becoming part of the vast ocean.


Moments like this make you pause.

You realize how beautifully these islands breathe.

A little further ahead, I reached one of the most fascinating stretches on this route — the Dhaninala Mangrove Walkway.


Walking through the mangroves here is a different experience altogether. The wooden pathway cuts through thick mangrove forests before suddenly opening up to the ocean floor. During low tide, the sea retreats far away, leaving behind a wide expanse of exposed seabed. It almost feels like the forest and the ocean are quietly negotiating their boundaries.


Back on the saddle, the road began weaving through small settlements and countryside.


The heat of the morning slowly gave way to an overcast sky. Along the road, I saw people quickly collecting clothes they had put out to dry, sensing the familiar tropical signal — rain was coming.

And then it did.A soft drizzle. And just as quickly as it arrived, it disappeared.


This is exactly how the Andaman behaves. When it rains, it rains. And when it stops, you barely realize it ever happened — except for small puddles quietly sitting on the road.


Welcome to the tropical evergreen forests.


One of the most beautiful parts of today’s ride was the stretch between Rangat and Billiground. The first 30 kilometers were simply magical — open skies above, the ocean stretching out on the right, dense forests rising on the left, and a quiet road running right between them.


Cycling here almost feels cinematic.


Of course, every long ride deserves a proper reward. At Billiground, I gave in to temptation — four rasgullas and two gulab jamuns. After hours of pedalling, that sugar rush felt absolutely perfect.


The road conditions today were mostly good, but the stretch closer to Mayabunder needs attention. There are several potholes and broken patches, some extending up to 50- 100 meters but if your riding in Bangalore, your already used to it. On downhill sections, you suddenly have to slow down and navigate carefully.


Cycling here teaches you patience.


Just when you think you can pick up speed, the road gently reminds you to stay alert.

By late afternoon, I rolled into Mayabunder, where I stopped for lunch at a beautiful Karen community property called Koh Hee (Island Home) Homestay.


And this place deserves a story of its own, Not Just a Homestay


“Koh Hee,” which loosely translates to “Island Home,” is exactly what it feels like when you arrive here.


The homestay is located in Webi village, one of the traditional settlements of the Karen community in the Andamans. The wooden house itself is a beautiful example of traditional Karen architecture — simple, functional, and deeply connected to the land.


The Karen people originally came to the Andaman Islands from Myanmar nearly a century ago, when the British administration invited them because of their knowledge of forests and agriculture. Today, their descendants live mainly in villages around Mayabunder and Diglipur, continuing traditions of farming, fishing, and living closely with nature.


Staying here is not like staying in a resort.


It feels like stepping into someone’s life.


The property sits on nearly five acres of land, where rice has been cultivated for generations. During the monsoon season, the fields come alive with paddy cultivation — a tradition that has been passed down through the family.

Mr. John, who runs the homestay, took me around the farm and the property. The conversation quickly moved beyond hospitality — we spoke about farming, conservation, community life, and the possibilities of responsible tourism in the islands.


What makes places like this special is the authenticity.


You don’t just stay here — you learn.


You learn how communities live with the forest rather than against it. You see how traditional knowledge still shapes daily life. The Karen people have long believed in respecting the forest — even small practices like avoiding harming female animals while hunting or sustainably using forest plants reflect their deep relationship with nature.

Meals here are an experience, fresh, and deeply satisfying. Lunch today included fresh food, tender coconut, and a generous spread that felt like it came straight from the land around the house.


But more than the food, it’s the conversations and the stories that stay with you.


Places like Koh Hee remind you that travel doesn’t always have to be about luxury.

Sometimes the most meaningful experiences come from living slowly, listening to stories, and understanding a place through the people who call it home.


Why Cycling Makes This Journey Special

Now as I sit by the window, writing down the memories from today’s ride, I realize something again.


Cycling changes the way you see a place.


You notice the small details.

You stop in villages.

You talk to people.

You take detours that cars would never take.


And that is exactly the spirit behind the Tour of Andaman.


Not just riding bicycles.

But discovering islands.

Meeting communities.

Experiencing landscapes that change every few kilometers.

The forests, the ocean, the villages, the sudden rain showers — everything becomes part of the journey.


And today was one of those days that reminded me why exploring these islands on two wheels is truly special.


Tomorrow, the road continues.

 
 
 

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